Eastern Turkey: Where is everyone? Even Noah's Ark is empty in this dramatic land

'And there is Noah's Ark." Silence greeted the prophetic scene. "I can't see it," I said eventually. More silence. But I knew the rest of the tour group staring at the hillside, in the shadow of Mount Ararat, couldn't see it either. Our guide, Denis, outlined the contours of the hill again trying to make us see a boat shape while we willed him to succeed.